Hawkers Update

Went back to Hawkers and had a different experience. This time, not as good. They are on only their fourth day of service and I will say that they went to a lot of trouble to make it right.

Some of it had to do with "team service", of which I have not been a fan. It means that lots of different people bring you your orders and no one person is responsible for you, even though you have a server. For it to work, everybody has to be in the loop. So, if for example, somebody is running out an extra order out to you to make up for a screw-up, you might turn them away because you assume it's a mistake. And because all they were told was to bring you the order, they'll leave.

It's true, this time around the difficulty level was raised. I brought someone with me who has coconut and nut allergies (but can do peanut) and they were very careful about it. The server wasn't incredibly versed as to ingredients, but he did take it seriously and so did the kitchen. However, this made us the sort of table that sucks the server's time.

The server assumed that all the orders came from one person. He left quickly after getting an order for the small plates. I didn't get to put my order in, but managed to be happy with the small plates. And my hungry husband, who wanted an entrée for himself, was left wondering why he was passed over. He was finally able to put his order in, but some time later, the server came back, telling us they were out of the item he ordered.

The server did not wait after delivering the news, but instead faded away into the crowded din. My husband was not happy about that. Sharing is kind of a big thing at Hawkers, so realize that if a server sees food on your table, they mainly come back when you're getting low. They will assume that you're happy with small plates, just like our server did. Unfortunately, what we had on the table wasn't what my husband wanted. The server needed to check with all of us, or even ask if we needed anything else. I realize that he was busy, and the questions about ingredients took a lot of his time.

Points for Hawkers:
--Once we were able to communicate what was wrong, they did their best to make it right and came by several times to make sure we were satisfied. Once in a while, stuff happens.

--They managed to get the allergy thing right! I know, because my friend is not in the hospital. If they had messed it up, she would be.

Things to know:

--Sharing is kind of a big thing at Hawkers, so realize that if a server sees food on your table, they mainly come back when you're getting low. They will assume that you're happy with small plates.

--Team service means that you have the right to FLAG ANYBODY down, not just your server. I'm not saying that's an easy thing to do, because they move at a high rate of speed.

Hawkers Asian Street Fare

The soft open of Hawkers did not disappoint. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much from a space that had doomed countless other ventures, restaurant and otherwise. But I was blown away by the food. Asian fare, so often, is done too broadly, flavors exaggerated, pushing them well past the delicate balance the dishes should have, when they're done right.

I brought along a dining partner that has spent some time in Beijing and knows the cuisine. The steamed dumplings, she said, would be her test. And they more than passed. My test was the roast duck. I love duck but am afraid to order it at most places, because it's a commitment. When duck is good, it can be very, very good, but when duck is bad it makes me very, very sad. The small plate of roast duck was cheap enough for me to take the risk. I'm glad I took it. Best. Duck. Ever.

The bok choy was tasty, but impossible to eat with chopsticks and problematic to eat with a fork and no knife. If you're coming in while it is still soft open, know this: they have no knives. Ask if they do. When they have them, you can safely order the bok choy.  The quality was good enough that I am perfectly fine with the fact that I looked a bit barbaric eating it. Om nom nom nom!

Also: great service.

We ordered three small plates, two entrees, Thai tea, coke and a small sake. Total before tip was about $50.

Things to Know: They take chopstick etiquette seriously. Don't worry, there's handy graphics on the menu to educate you!

Hawkers 1001 Park Street, Jacksonville, Florida 32204
(904) 508-0342

Eat here: Blue Bamboo

Five reasons why you should be eating at Jacksonville's Blue Bamboo:


1- It's a locally owned and operated restaurant on the Southside. In the commercial bustle of Southside, it's sometimes hard to remember that there are locally owned businesses that do a wonderful job. Blue Bamboo is one of those businesses.

2- There isn't anything like it in Jacksonville. This is Asian fusion at its finest, in a beautiful setting, with innovative cocktails and a great staff. Check out their menu to learn more!

3- It's a classier way to end or begin a night at the movies. Just down the road from Tinseltown, it's a way to get out of your dining rut.

4-Dim Sum Sundays. Once a month, they offer Dim Sum on Sundays. If you've had good dim sum, you're already making plans. If not, well, this needs to be part of your life.

5-Dennis Chan is part of Jacksonville's food legacy. His family has run about dozen restaurants in the past 60 years.

For more on what Blue Bamboo is all about, check out this interview at metrojacksonville.com

The Floridian, St. Augustine

Bottom line: It was good enough I bought the t-shirt.

vintage lamp on the bar

The Floridian does have its peculiarities: beer and wine isn't served in the main dining area, but it is served in the tiny bar in the back, aptly named The County Line. It has something to do with booze licensing in Old Town. Basically you have to buy a bottle of beer or wine and then take it into the dining room after settling up. No individual glasses of wine or mugs of beers can cross "the county line" into the dining room. We got around it by simply sitting at one of the three high-top tables available within the Floridian's County Line bar. They serve up local brew here. Jacksonville's own Bold City and Intuition Ale feature on their craft-heavy beer menu.

some of their kitsch

You will be surrounded by well-curated Florida kitsch and served by contented hipsters who seem super-happy to work there. Like the Columbia House, it's touristy enough for out-of-towners. But I think it does more than its share of local trade.

As I am a big fan of shrimp 'n grits, that's what I decided to order. It was a great decision. But it wasn't easy, because there wasn't a single menu item that didn't appeal to me. I will, of course, be going back. Their 'N Grits menu item comes with your choice of tofu, shrimp or fish. I went with the classic shrimp and chose the remoulade instead of the blackened or grilled based on the server's recommendation. The unlikely flavor combination of salsa, feta and remoulade more than worked-- it soared beautifully over my delighted taste buds. This place definitely follows the localvore trend with farm providers such as the CartWheel Ranch out of St. Johns County and Wainwright Dairy, from Live Oak, Florida.

The menu is seasonal, so it can change. Check out their site to drool current selections.
over the

The Floridian 39 Cordova Street, St. Augustine, FL (904)829-0655

Things to Know: The weird bar rules. They're closed on Tuesdays Lunch is 11 am-3 pm everyday they're open except Sunday, when they open at noon Dinner is 5 pm- 9 pm going to 10 pm on Fridays and Saturdays They don't take reservations, but you can call them for "priority seating."

Growing Lemongrass in Jacksonville

I bought some lemongrass at local Oriental market recently. They were selling it in clumps of three or four stalks. I had planned to use it in cooking, but I didn't end up getting a chance to use it. I'd heard from several people that it grows quite well here in North Florida, so I decided to try it.

Lemongrass likes tropical weather and lots of sun, making it the perfect summertime crop. I've been recently demoralized in the garden department, since nearly everything I've planted is wilting and dying.

If you're worried about the winter killing it off once it gets cold, well, stop worrying. It will die off a bit, but it's hardy enough to rally most of the time. Even if it does die a cold death, it's not difficult to replace and plant.

Most gardening guides say you should place the stalks in a clear vase with water at the bottom. Change the water every couple of days and plant them when you get 1/2 long. As an experiment, I skipped that step on one of my stalks, just to see how it would do. I made sure to keep it moist in a sunny place. The experimental stalk already has new growth, about a week after I put it in the pot. It sprouted at the same time as the rest of the lemongrass, which I planted later.

As for the rest of the lemongrass, it was in the vase for about a week before I planted them. Once in the pot, it was only two days before it sprouted new growth.

My lemongrass is planted in a pot with potting soil, but I may decide to fertilize (probably organically) because these guys like rich soil (though I've heard they don't absolutely need it). I'm looking forward to cooking with fresh lemongrass from my garden.

Pepper Palace, St. Augustine

Whenever I'm in St. Augustine, I always pop into the Pepper Palace to freshen my supply of datil pepper. Of course that's not the only form of hotness they carry. For the real pepper-heads, they carry some of the hottest hot sauces you can find. The folks who work there are knowledgeable and eager to spread the datil gospel.

While there I also picked up some of Pepper Palace's spice blends. So far I've tried the tequila seasoning (sea salt, chili powder, tequila, rosemary, lime, citric acid...) which is gangbusters on any kind of whitefish.

I like to toss veggies in the Old St. Augustine Sweet Heat Barbecue Sauce (sweet peppers and onions) and roast them in the oven.

I've still got two more spice blends to try out. When I do, I'll post recipes for them!

For those of you who can't make the trip to St. Augustine, don't worry, there are multiple locations and, best of all, a website.

Top Pot Donuts Seattle and Maurice's BBQ South Carolina

So I've been a bit busy. In the past two months, I've been to Seattle, drove to North Carolina and I've had three different sets of house guests. But I've been able to taste some really great food.

In Seattle, Top Pot Donuts was recommended to me by local Jacksonville Chef Dennis Chan. It was worthwhile because they were really good donuts. First, a bit of lore about the name. When Top Pot first opened, the owner was on a shoestring budget, so he bought a secondhand sign that said Top Spot. The S in spot wasn't quite operational, so he took it off. Hence, Top Spot Donuts became Top Pot Donuts, even though pots are not involved.

There are basically two different styles of donuts. The one pictured above is the "cake style" donut. The texture inside is almost like a slightly dry cup cake, perfect for dunking! The other style is the old school donut, aptly named the old-fashioned. We got a dozen. choosing as many different types as we could. It wasn't hard since they have about 40 varieties of donuts. They're really filling and they taste amazing. There's no scarfing down of five donuts because they're huge and decadent.

My other great dining experience was in South Carolina. You may have heard of Maurice's BBQ. We stopped there by chance on our way to North Carolina. We indulged in the buffet, where I discovered ribs so tender and soaked with flavor that I had to close my eyes to better experience them. South Carolina loves their sauces, and the mustard-based sauce on my ribs was amply dramatic and savory. I didn't take a picture because the camera was packed away and because, quite honestly, barbecue often isn't beautiful. It tasted beautiful, but it certainly didn't look it.